Following on from the previous answer, if there is a leak in the vacuum system and therefore the engine inlet,
you will get a weak mixture, causing poor running and limited top end. So you need to check not only for leaks
in the inlet manifold gaskets etc. but also the vacuum storage and headlight operating system. However, another
possible cause is that many engines will have been uprated by replacing the original cast iron exhaust manifold
with a stainless steel, full flow, four branch manifold with stainless silencer. This will allow better engine
breathing but consequently require carburettor enrichment especially with the original Prep 142 or 'S' models.
It has been found that if nothing else has been changed, then it may be just about O.K. but it will be marginal
and if there have been any other modifications like a better camshaft then you should fit larger main jets to
the side draught Solex carbs. The best way, as always, is to have it set up correctly on a rolling road.
The original fuel pump was an AC Delco 461-26 and had a crimped body around the diaphragm. It
used to leak from here and there was no way to repair it. If you have one of these, you need to replace
it, and you can either use the original number above to obtain a replacement, or try the Peugeot-Talbot
16205900 or the Mopar No. VFP212. With any replacement, check that the operating rod is exactly the
same length. There have been some reported that are slightly longer, and they won't work. As there is
already a heat insulation spacer fitted between the engine and pump, you can't fit another spacer, so you
would need to shorten the rod back to the original length. Another option is to fit an electric pump, but
if you take this route you should make sure to wire it with a safety device. All manufacturers fit an
inertia switch so that in the event of an accident, the pump does not continue to pump fuel, possibly on
to a fire!
While mentioning fire, it is worth pointing out that you should never fill the Murena fuel tank immediately
before putting the car away in a garage. The problem is that fuel just pumped into the tank will be cold
and the engine bay will be hot. Therefore the fuel will expand as it warms up, and if the tank is full, it
will overflow onto the floor just beneath the driver's seat area. This pool of fuel will give off fumes which
are highly combustible, and are therefore a danger to causing a fire. It is better to leave the tank low and
fill it just before starting your journey.
The release handle in the B pillar is connected to the rear glass catches with a long cable. It is
fastened rigidly, so each time the release is pulled it has to flex. Eventually it will break, usually
right by the handle. If you take out the handle (one screw) you may just be able to get hold of the
broken end of the cable with a pair of grips and pull it, releasing the glass. (since the cable goes
upwards from the handle, look upwards behind the panel after removing the handle, to find the end).
Another way to access the cable, and when fitting the new one, is to remove the fibre strip that seals
the gap between the body and chassis at the front of the rear wheel arch. This is only held on by rivets.
In an emergency, access may possibly be gained to the boot in some but not all cases, but as this is an
open website FAQ I will not divulge it here for security! Please contact me if you need to know.
Why is this?
The system works as follows: Either the dipstick contains a sensor (1.6 engines) or a sensor is fitted into
the sump (2.2 engines) and these send a signal to the control unit which is under the left hand side of the
dashboard. When you turn the ignition on, you should pause to let it read and you should see the oil
warning light flash twice. If the level is correct, it should then stop. If it doesn't stop flashing, either the
level is too low, a wire is broken, or possibly the sensor is broken. If you start up without that pause, it will
interrupt the system during the read phase and most likely it will continue to flash even though the level is
correct. If the warning light starts flashing during running, it should be indicating the level has dropped below
minimum level; but again there could be a fault that has developed. I have had my Murena 2.2 from new and
the system works fine and reliably. However, just once at the beginning a wire from the sensor broke during
a journey (as it had been pulled too tight during assembly) and the light started to flash. Once I had verified
the oil level was O.K. I ignored it until I could get home and repair the broken wire.
Back to top
I have noted other Murena have an intermittent operation. Why doesn't mine?
All Murena have these features and so does yours. You probably haven't realised how it is switched on. The
wiper stalk operates slow and fast speeds in the two positions down from the 'Off' position. It has a 'flick wipe'
operation going up from the 'Off' position. However, if you hold the wiper stalk in that 'flick wipe' (i.e. up)
position for at least two seconds or two sweeps of the wipers, it will set the wipers into intermittent mode! To
switch them off, you simply move the stalk to slow speed and back to 'Off' again.
This is often a common problem with old cars generally and is partly due to the corrosion that takes
place in the open multi-pin loom connectors. Also the Murena and Espace have galvanised chassis,
which can cause additional problems. This is due to the zinc creeping back in under the earthing points.
It's a good feature that 'self-heals' small chips and scratches but is not what you need for a clean earth!
Periodically remove all earths, and clean them back to bare metal, refit, secure, and cover with silicon.
As for the multi-pin connectors, make sure they are good and haven't corroded (they will go green) and
if necessary, repair them, and again seal with silicon grease.
How can I rectify this?
The latest cars have 'air blend' ventilation systems. Air blending means the heater matrix always has the full
coolant flowing through it, and for cool or cold air inside, the airflow over the matrix is progressively shut off.
Earlier cars (say seventies and before) had a control tap to limit the coolant through the matrix and for cold air it
was shut off altogether. The Murena uses a mixture of both. So there are two possible causes for this fault. The
first is that with age the heater tap, which should stop the flow of hot water through the heater matrix when set
to full cold, is still allowing hot water through. If this is the case then you need a new tap. The second and most
common problem is that the set-up adjustment is wrong. The problem here is that everyone sees the cable from
the interior lever on to the tap and tries to adjust it to turn it off fully. What they miss is the fact that a second
cable goes directly back from this tap to a flap inside the heater box, and if the flap closes before the tap, it will
stop the tap from closing fully. I would say almost every car made was set up incorrectly but once the setting is
corrected, the tap will shut off and you will get cool air inside - as cold as it is outside anyway! So you MUST
adjust the setting so that the flap and tap close together first, before adjusting the cable from the interior lever.
